Innkeepers & travelers, please send us your travel articles for future issues at info@altraverse.com!
Italy 2005
Part Three: Florence & Tuscany
The Trip from Naples
From Sorrento, we traveled back to Naples via the Circumvesuviana, and then from there via a Eurostar train to Florence. The trip from Sorrento to Naples took just over an hour (not counting the stop in Pompeii), and from Naples to Florence took about 3 1/2 hours. We used the time working up some of the pictures from the trip so far for these articles. We attracted a lot of interest, with passengers and employees alike stopping to watch as we prepped the pictures, cropping them to size, hilighiting the dark areas, and so on.
We arrived at Santa Maria Novella Stazione, just across from the church of the same name and at the edge of the Historic Center, and found a bus to take us to our first accommodations in the city.
The Tuscan People
 We met some very friendly folks in Florence and Tuscany, and also a few souls who apparently were sick of tourists - retail store owners who answered a very friendly "Parli Inglese?" with "No, Ciao" and an outstretched hand. But all of our hosts and most of the other service folks we met were friendly.
Around Florence & Tuscany
 We visited several distinctive areas in Tuscany, including Florence, Pisa, Lucca, and the Tuscan Hills - but we got rained out in the Hills, and both were sick with a cold for a fair amount of the time in Florence, so we missed out on some of the things we wished we could have done. But we still enjoyed the center of Italy, and plan to return to spend more time in the hills on a future trip.
Florence, like Rome and Venice, also has unexpected artwork around every corner (and sometimes above the corners), as you can see from the statue at left.
Florence
Click On Any Picture To See More
Florence is a big city, but the heart of Florence is the historic center, where the Ufizzi Museum is. The city is fair by daylight, but comes alive at night, just like Rome and Venice. The streets and alleyways are all lit, folks come out to stroll the streets, and the whole place takes on a magical allure.
Where to Eat
I Latini Restaurant
Via del Palchetti 6R, Chiuso il Lunedi, Palazzo Rucellai
Florence, 50125 Italy
+39 55 21 0916
Our favorite place for dinner was I Latini – a tourist favorite. Ask your concierge to get you reservations a day or more in advance if you can. The hotel has two seatings (7:30 pm and 9:30 pm); we recommend getting there a little early, as the place is in a side alley and can be difficult to find, and they let folks in from the front first. There is no line, so just get as close to the door as you can.
The charm of this place is that they food is fantastic, and they don’t give you a menu. You’re seated at a table with other folks from different places (folks in the USA, think Benihanas), so you get to meet travelers from other parts of the world, which makes for great dinner conversation. Then the waiter gives you a choice of several starters, and the food starts coming.
Do not have lunch if you plan to eat dinner here, and sample each dish in moderation. We counted something like seven courses, so save room for the whole meal. There’s also a huge bottle of house wine on the table that never seems to run dry.
For our meal, we sat with a fascinating woman, a restaurant owner from Beverly Hills named Fran (see her site at http://www.farmofbeverlyhills.com), and an engineer from France who was currently living in Norway and had only been to the US once, to visit Utah (for the geology). The conversation was far ranging and very interesting; in fact, when we left the restaurant, stuffed, Fran invited us back to her hotel for tea and a chance ro talk a bit more.
Once the meal is over, the owner himself comes by the table, looks at you, talks to the waiter, and decides what you owe. Expect to spend about 35-45 euros a person for a fantastic dinner you won’t soon forget. Yes, it’s a bit of a tourist trap, but for good reason – great food and a wonderful experience.
What to Do
The Accademia can be tricky to get into without a reservation. We got there mid-morning and got in line, and watched while the reservation line steadily trickled in. Our line didn’t move at all – apparently they only let folks in without reservations when the reservation line drops off, which may not happen on any given day.
So we called the reservation line, and were able to secure next-day reservations for ourselves and another couple in line next to us, and same-day reservations for folks with us who were leaving town later that day. So call ahead, and you’ll be guaranteed entry. But arrive, even with reservations, half an hour early to get in line.
 Pictures are not allowed inside (though we saw some folks taking them surreptiously – do so at your own risk, because they do watch). There are a number of sculptors represented, but Michaelangelo is front and center, and the hall leading up to David featurtes some of his smaller works. Michaelangelo believed that the statues were already in the stone, and he was only revealing them. Looking at his art, this is not hard to believe, especially in the statures that are only partly completed – they do seem to be emerging whole from the stone that encases them.
 David was the hilight of this part of the trip. Recently cleaned and restored, the statue shines. He’s displayed in a domed enclosure whose subtle greys and whites and natural sunlight place the focus on the statue, where it belongs. The version at right is the copy at the Piazza della Signoria - you can see photos of the original at the accademia website link above.
David has an intense concentration upon his features, as he thinks “I can take this guy.” There’s a whole school of thought on this statue, about how he represents renaissance man’s belief that through his prowess and intellect, he could take on the medieaval world.
But beyond such art critiques, the statue is quite simply a thing of beauty, especially for anyone who appreciates the masculine form. Powerful hands, an intense gaze, and a total lack of shame about his own body combine to make this a true work of art.
It’s funny, because we didn’t think the statue would have such an impact on us, but we literally sat there looking at it for half an hour, just stunned by the thing.
A couple interesting things about David:
- There are several replicas outside in Florence, one near the Ufizzi. But they don’t capture the majesty of the original
- The head of the statue is larger then it should be, proportionally – originally, it was going to be displayed on top of a tall roof, and the larger head would help it look right when viewed from below.
- The statue remains where it was originally placed, and the enclosure was built around it.
Whatever else you do in Florence, see the Accademia and David.
 Palazzo Pitti
Piazza Pitti 1, 50125 Firenze
055 2654321
http://www.palazzopitti.it/
A couple sample pics of the murals:
Across the Ponte Vecchio, there’s a small complex of museums called the Palazzo Pitti. Take time to visit the Museo degli Argentini at the Palazzo Pitti – no matter what the exhibit there is. When we were there, it was Erotica and Mythology, a rather mundane display of naked cupids having sex with Rubenesque women, etc. But the museum itself is the star here – filled with faux paintings of balconies, statues, figures, art and more. Every room’s walls are masterpieces, with tons of detail in each painting from floor to (and across) the ceilings. Pictures were not allowed, but take our word for it - the museum is well worth the entry fee.
There are a few samples above that we found on the web, to give you a little idea.
Also here, take time to wander into the gardens behind the palace – there are some great views of the city from the hillside here.
Though we didn't go inside, the Duomo was more than impressive enough from the outside. The Duomo defines the northern edge of the Historic Center (the Centro Storico), and like much of the rest of Historic Italy, was in the process of being cleaned and restored while we were there.
There were also a number of restaurants and small vendor booths clustered around the Piazza S. Giovanni, where the Duomo sits.
  
 The Uffizi
Piazza Della Signoria, Firenze
Another place we didn't have time to visit, but there's also some fantastic art on the outside, including replications of David and the Rape of the Sabines. It's also the location of the Palazzo Vecchio. Below are a few examples of the statuary that dot the Piazza and streets around these museums.
The Ponte Vecchio
The Ponte Vecchio (old bridge), originally built around 50 BC, was rebuilt in 1178 AD, after a great flood, and again in 1345, the structure that survives to the current day. The bridge is also like a medieval shopping mall, with stores lining both sides of the walkway. Thanks to the Agriturismo Belvedere website for the historical background: http://www.agriturismobelvedere.it/firenze%20inglese/Monumenti/ponte_vecchio.htm
  
Pisa & Lucca
Click On Any Picture To See More
 Pisa is down river from Florence, and in many respects is a similar, smaller version. The city has a charming riverside, but the main attraction here is, of course, the leaning tower.
 To get here, we took the train from Florence (at SMN station); the ride took just about an hour, and the cost was less than 10 euros each. At the Pisa Airport (just south of the Arno River), we rented another smart car. We first rented one of these in Rome, and they're perfect for getting around in Italy (but stay out of the large cities). That's Mark in the car at the Pisa airport at right.
The days we had the smart car and visited Tuscany and Pisa/Lucca were the rainiest of our trip, so we didn’t have a chance to stay very long or see much, but we did snap a few pics at the tower (note the absence of any pictures showing us holding the tower up from an imminent collapse – this is intentional <grin>).
We parked a ways away from the tower on a side street and walked. Many of the streets in Italy in the larger cities have paid parking with a common payment box – you pay for your time at a box somewhere down the street from your space and then get a ticket that you bring back and put on your dashboard.
We also found a lack of restaurants around the tower; there were a few, but none open for breakfast, and all were a bit touristy.
Moving on from Pisa, we traveled up the River Arno and then up into the foothills to Calci.
Where to Stay
In Calci, we visited Emma’s Place B&B, and were greeted by Emma’s charming daughter. Emma’s is an immaculately kept homestay in a quiet neighborhood, with very friendly hosts. It’s a great base for exploring the countryside and coast in the Pisa and Luca area, a bit closer to Pisa than to Lucca.
The B&B is in a private home in a small suburban area off the main road to Calci, and features 2 guest rooms, each with its own bath (bathrooms are outside the suites, but are dedicated to each room). Guests are free to use the living room and dining room, and there's also a quiet terrace looking out on the back yard. This is a great base for exploring the Tuscany Coast - the place is immaculate, and the hosts are very friendly.
Where to Eat
We also found a great little restaurant just a block from Emma's called Pizzeria La Certosa – the hosts spoke no English, but (thanks Patrizia, our Italian instructor) we were able to get our wishes across. The restaurant serves wonderful spaghetti, mostly with seafood, and is owned by a husband and wife couple – at our request they made us a basic but wonderful dish sans the fish. Very nice folks and a great place to stop for lunch if you’re in the area.
Where to Eat
Then we drove on to Lucca proper. Lucca is a fascinating town – the old roman city lies at its heart, and is completely surrounded by a greenbelt (which used to be the city moat) and a wall that you can walk or bike ride on all the way around the city. Access is through several gates, and there are parking lots inside the gates for visitors. We were lucky enough to find a spot near the northern gate, and then got harangued by an elderly woman (who spoke no English) and her daughter (who spoke some) about how they had been waiting in the parking lot for an hour, and so we should back out and give the space to them. We didn’t, and they found another space within five minutes.
It’s funny how sometimes you get forced into playing the ugly American role by folks who are rude to you in the first place… fortunately this is a fairly rare occurance, and most of the folks we met in Italy were very accommodating and friendly.
Lucca is a very charming stone town, and we hope next visit to spend a bit more time exploring it’s back alleys and shops, hopefully on a much sunnier day. Our Italian teacher in Sacramento hails from here.
In addition to the rainy weather, we both caught colds in Florence, and so we found a Farmacia (Pharmacy) here that had cough drops to ease our vacation suffering.
Where to Stay
Also in this area, on the coast, are several other accommodations:
The house dates originally from 1765 but has been fully restored about 20 years ago when it was basically a pile of stones. 5 years ago it was been turned into a B&B. Locanda al Colle is near the sea - it only takes 10 minutes to drive to the nearest beach.
From the property you can see the sea and the promontory of Portovenere and the Palmaria island in front of it. The art towns of Lucca Pisa and Florence are all easily reachable by car in about 30 minutes for the first 2 and 1 hour for the latter. Pietrasanta, known to artsists worldwide for its marble carving studios and bronze foundaries, is only 2 km from the house. The owners are both from Viareggio having lived abroad in different countries for many years.
The Tuscan Hills were beautiful. Leaving Florence, we missed our turn to the A1 Autostrada, and ended up taking the longer, scenic route to our first appointment, but the drive was beautiful, even through the fog and mist. This was our one day in the hills, and we hoped the clouds would lift, but we ended up getting cats and dogs instead.
Where to Stay
We have two featured properties in the area:
Agriturismo Savorgnano is a beautiful, rustic, stone-walled farm with swimming-pool, dating back to the beginning of the 18th century. The home was recently restored with great care. It's located in Eastern Tuscany, not far from Florence, Arezzo, Cortona, and Northern Umbria.
The villa has a comfortable, familiar and informal atmosphere, and looks out on beautiful Tuscan Hillsides. It's a great place to go to get away from it all, and also central to many places in Tuscany. It's also just an hour away from Florence by car. The hosts are very friendly, and this is a great place for couples to share a romantic weekend (or week) in Tuscany.
Casa Portagioia is a small estate in near Cortona - famous for the books and film “Under the Tuscan Sun”. This hotel/bed and breakfast offers 5 independent guest bedrooms – all with luxury private bathrooms and 2 beautifully appointed apartments which can each accommodate 2 – 4 guests. The accommodation is of an outstanding quality and the service second to none. Terry and Marcello have created a place of complete peace and tranquillity and have achieved a perfect balance of comfort charm and guest comfort.
Casa Portagioia is nestled in the beautiful Valle di Chio (referred to by one of the Medici Dukes as ‘God’s Valley’) with olive groves, sunflowers and the typical Tuscan countryside of rolling hills and green vegetation, it is an enviable setting. For a days relaxation their huge solar heated swimming pool is the perfect place to be and the views are stunning. The main town is Castiglion Fiorentino. From here you can easily visit Cortona and Arezzo which are about 15 minutes away or, within an hours drive you are able to visit many Tuscan and Umbrian towns such as Florence, Siena, Assisi, the Chianti region, Montepulciano - to name but a few. There is a train station at Castiglion with trains to Rome and Florence.
Transportation in Florence and Tuscany
Use the trains to get around as much as you can - they're easy to get you between Florence and Pisa, especially, and there are lines to most of the larger towns.
But for the Tuscan countryside, consider getting a car. Our smart car worked out really well - very maneuverable and easy to park. But do not try to drive in the big cities unless you have a strong heart. We drove into Florence from Pisa to park the car for the night, and we'd never do it again.
It took us an hour on the autostrada from Pisa to Florence, and another full hour to get from the edge to the center of town. During this hour, we went the wrong way over a bridge, made an illegal u turn in the middle of the bridge and almost got pulled over by the Florentian Police, got lost four times, enjoyed the fall of night in a foreign city we knew nothing about, shared five lanes with six lanes of cars, almost got caught by the inner city traffic cameras, and finally managed to back into a parking garage space that was small even for a smart car.
Think twice (or maybe three times) before attempting to drive in Florence. <grin>
Eating in Italy
Eating in Italy has its own traditions and idisyncracies, including:
--Most of the restaurants we visited offered water with or without gas - carbonated or non-carbonated. If you say yes to either, expect to pay 3-6 euro for a bottle for two. If you say no, expect a strange look or two.
--Be aware, too, that Cokes are very expensive in Italy - typically 3.50-5.00 euros per can, no refill included. And Pepsi is rare in Italy, for some reason. Most places serve Coca Cola.
--Most restaurants do not offer ice except by request - so if you want ice with your drink, ask for "giacchio" - pronounced "ghee-ah-cho".
--Although offically banned in the larger cities in Italy, many places still charge a cover charge - literally, a charge to use the table and table cloth (cover). This shows up as a coperto charge (cover), or pane e coperto (bread and cover) on the bill. If you visit a bar or cafe and don't plan to stay there to eat, say "no tavolo" (no table) and your bill will be less. If you do want to stay and relax, ask for a tavolo, and expect to pay a bit more (often 1-2 euros, more in some touristy areas - we paid 9 in the center of Milan). This allows you to rent the table as long as you want it, so feel free to stay and people watch for a long morning or afternoon. One other note: usually if you choose to sit, they cashier will tell you to choose a table, and a waiter will come take your order, instead of ordering at the counter.
--Most restaurants will tell you "servizio incluso", meaning the cost of service/tip is part of the bill/food charge. In this case, you do not need to tip on top of the bill, but can give an extra euro or two if you want to a server or bus boy who gave you excellent service - this is always appreciated. If servizio non incluso, then the tip should be left in addition to the bill. If you pay by credit card and want to include the tip on the card, tell the waiter when he first brings the check how much you want to add. Unlike in the US, you can't add the tip to the credit card bill after the waiter charges you. You may want to tip in Euro anyhow, as we were advised by some other travelers that some restaurants do not pass the credit card tips on to the staff.
--Avoid restaurants close to tourist attractions as a general rule, unless the place has been recommended to you by someone who has been there. Often the food there will be expensive and of poor quality.
--Sometimes you'll get a rude waiter (we had several in Rome). Tip the busing staff if you can directly in these cases - you'll never see the waiter again, but they have to put up with this guy every day.
--If you need another coke, bread basket, etc, the word is "altro" - "altro coke, per favore", "altro pane" (bread), etc.
Here are a few resources we found helpful during our visit to Italy. Please remember that the advice in these resources is AYOR.
 Insight Guides: Italyhttp://www.insightguides.comWhile a bit light in detail on some of the outlying areas, this guide is rich in information on the history of Italy, and is a great read before you go or companion in Rome and Italy - but be warned - it's a bit heavy, so it's better for suitcase travel than backpacking.
 Oxford Italian Minidictionaryhttp://www.oup.comOur bible in Italy. We took an Italian for Travelers class at the Italian Center in Sacramento - thanks Patrizia for the excellent instruction. But there's no substitute for having the answers to your linguistic questions on hand. We carried this n our camera case, and used it to translate signs, ask questions, find that word you either didn't know or forgot, and most interestingly in conversation back and forth with folks we met on the trip, when they spoke a little English and we spoke a little Italian. Highly recommended, with English to Italian, Italian to English, Common Phrases, and verb table sections.
|
