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Canada's Maritime Provinces:
Refreshing Salt Air & Verdant Farmlands
When mention is made of Canada's Maritime Provinces the images that come to mind are those of the regionís two iconic young ladies, Evangeline and "Anne of Green Gables". But now the economically battered region is creating a sense of excitement around newly invigorated tourism programs logically based upon the provinces' maritime history.
 Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia and the regional pacemaker, is tucked between its deep water bay and the 18th C. British fortress atop the highest hill, with its many attractions located within its compact center city and revitalized harbor front.
Along Granville Street newly renovated 19th C. Victorian stone mercantile buildings have been modernized and spiffed up with energetic cafes, restaurants and stylish boutiques continuing the excitement pulsing around the corner along Lower Water Street, the heart of the harbor front with first class hotels, harbor and whale watching cruises, the ferry to Dartmouth across the bay, the exciting glass making foundry of the Nova Scotian Crystal Co., restored wharves filled with restaurants and stores and at the end of the Historic Properties Wharf, a tempting selection of food purveyors in the Food Hall and its outdoor deck for dining at the water's edge. A few steps away through a series of enclosed glass walkways is the Halifax Casino, a large facility offering the gamut of gambling games.
The mid-19th C. City Clock Tower, a modest frame structure housing the still-working timepiece, stands in front of the massive stone walls of the Citadel, the 18th C. British redoubt.
Every day a thumping drum and bagpipe marching corps of college students and others hired for the summer's display and costumed as 19th C. 78th Regiment Scottish Highlanders march and strut a lively and spirited performance that precedes the firing of one of the cannons to mark the noon hour . A variety of guided tours give visitors an opportunity to see the workings of this once impressive bastion.
A few blocks over on the other side of the city center on Spring Garden Street alongside the venerable Victorian red brick campus buildings of Dalhousie University is the center of the cityís collegiate community, striding along in their countercultural attire as they strive to appear as contemporary as their big city counterparts.
Where the Spring Garden meets Barrington Street the raffish blocks are anchored by the Victorian Gothic Revival St. Mary's Church. and the sculpted granite of the squat, Art Deco Public Library.
The highway out of Halifax to Prince Edward Island rolls through verdant farmlands and pine forests, skirts countless lakes, salt ponds and marshes until you reach the Northumberland Strait and the 9 mile long Confederation Bridge, 1994 -1997, an engineering accomplishment of will and determination constructed to give the islanders year round access to the mainland.
Charlottetown, the province's capital, is a small city whose fortunes declined with the ebb of the seafaring and fishing industries and has reversed its fortunes by shrewdly capitalizing on island's "Anne of Green Gables" legacy and idyllic summers.
The city is focused around its harbor front, where scattered around Peake's Wharf are colorfully painted and restored frame buildings, once used as chandlers warehouses, storage facilities and ship repair yards when this was indeed a seafarers' port, are now reincarnated as restaurants, colorful crafts and arts stores and souvenir shops to a steady flow of tourists.
The 19th C. Founders' Hall, the seat of the provincial legislature, is situated amidst the continuing surge of new businesses that have restored a vibrancy and charm to once derelict blocks. The Victoria Row pedestrian-only stretch of Richmond Street, well known for its restored Red brick Victorian buildings offers visitors an additional selection of restaurants and cafes with outdoor dining and quaint shops that include one dedicated solely to memorabilia inspired by "Anne of Green Gables".
Each year the Summer Festival at the Confederation Centre of the Arts schedules an impressive number of events and performances, including, for its 41st season, the ever popular musical version of the "Anne..." story, a somewhat treacly interpretation of a tale forever popular with Canadian audiences.
I chose to return to Halifax via the NFL auto ferry from Wood Islands to Caribou, a 75 minute crossing of the 12 mile strait. The large ship carries upwards of 225 vehicles at a rate slightly higher than the bridge crossing but in its seafaring way adds a definite amount of salt air and sense of heroic passage to the last segment of a restful and pleasant vacation in Maritime Canada.
Earlfield Travel is your neighborhood travel agency, located at 144A Fifth Avenue, Pelham NY 10803/ ph. 914 738 0321 / www.gotravel.com.
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconson
Most would consider the mere act of issuing a weather prediction going out on a limb. Yet, in Wisconsin Dells, the waterpark mecca for travelers from around the country, the Visitor & Convention Bureau and its member businesses take weather prognosticating in stride. After all, the indoor waterparks are always a balmy 85 degrees, even in the autumn, and since the beginning of time crisp evenings have contributed to brilliant fall colors, providing the perfect backdrop for leaf peepers, hikers and golfers.
Wisconsin Dells has rightly earned its title as "Waterpark Capital of the World" thanks to 18 indoor waterparks that keep visitors coming year-round. Fall is prime time for groups of friends and families. It‚s less expensive than a cruise, but with all the amenities - a remarkable variety of accommodations, restaurants on premise or nearby, entertainment, and more than enough water rides to keep everyone busy.
Wisconsin Dells also claims to give any New England state a run for its money when it comes to a blaze of autumn color. To prove that claim, boat tours on the Wisconsin River, including those on the famous amphibious vehicles known as "Ducks," run well into November. Then there‚s the area's new downtown RiverWalk, providing vistas of the Wisconsin River not seen in 75 years. Three nearby state parks - Devil‚s Lake, Mirror Lake and Rocky Arbor - serve up spectacular climbing and canoeing options too.
Golf choices for the self-proclaimed pros as well as the more honest weekend hackers have really been ratcheted up in recent years. Many of the championship courses follow the natural woodsy terrain and rolling hills of the area, so much so that a day on the course easily qualifies as a foliage tour as well.
Just like the seasonal colors, the Dells for grown-ups‚ alter ego really shines in the fall. Award-winning bed and breakfasts like the White Rose Inns, acclaimed spas such as Sundara Inn & Spa, and exceptional fine dining options, such as the Del-Bar and Field‚s at the Wilderness, are perfect for a couple‚s getaway. A tour of the nearby Wollersheim Winery makes for a great field trip too.
As if that wasn‚t enough to lure people, the area‚s visitor bureau decided two fall festivals were in order. Wo-Zha-Wa Days celebrates the start of the fall season and runs September 16-18. Then, October 15-16, there‚s Autumn Harvest Fest, focusing on the bounty of the season, along with a micro-brew tasting.
Planning resources from Wisconsin Dells are readily available. Visit www.wisdells.com or call the toll-free number 1-800-223-3557.
One of the top 15 bed & breakfasts in the nation with nearby attractions, according to readers of Inn Traveler magazine, the White Rose Inns is located in downtown Wisconsin Dells. The inns consist of three hundred-year-old houses overlooking the Wisconsin River ˆ two Victorians and one designed by a colleague of Frank Lloyd Wright. Guests at the White Rose Inns enjoy romantic guestroom amenities such as whirlpools, fireplaces and scenic views and relax in the inns‚ gorgeous gardens. A choice of several delicious breakfasts is offered each morning and guests have easy access to downtown attractions via the Dells RiverWalk. The White Rose Inns specializes in group events and weddings, and offers fun packages such as Murder Mystery dinners, massages and romantic touches like wine, flowers and gift baskets.
Information about the White Rose Inns and pictures of the luscious guestrooms can be found at www.thewhiterose.com or by calling (800) 482 4724.
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