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See the Last Newsletter: February 2005
See the Next Newsletter: April 2005


March 6th 2005 - Volume 3, Issue 3

Welcome to the Altraverse Travel Newsletter. This month, we have a number of features:

We're also looking for articles about places around the globe - if you're a traveler and want to share your experiences, or an innkeeper with intimate knowledge of your area, let us know - we'd love to put you into the next newsletter!

That's it for now - enjoy!

-- Mark & Scott & the Altraverse Staff


Maui, Hawaii Part Two: Southern & Western Maui

Click here for Maui Accommodations on Altraverse.com
http://www.altraverse.com/rg/usa/hawaii/himaui.html

Last month we chronicled the first half of our trip to Maui in December 2004. In this issue, we'll cover South Maui and West Maui below, including accommodations we visited and stayed at, restaurants we ate at, and the many activities and sights we took in while on-island.

Thanks to Roxanne and Keli'i at the Maui Visitors Bureau (http://www.visitmaui.com) for helping to set up many of the activites for us on-island.

South Shore

Click On Any Picture To See More

Just below the central valley, hugging the coastline, is the South Shore - Kihei to the north, and Wailea to the south.

Kihei is a beach town. The city higs the coast, its two main drags running parallel to the water. Kihei is filled with motels and small boutique hotels, along with apartments and a few small shopping centers. This town is all about the beach, and everywhere in Kihei is either across from the water or just a short walk to it.

Kihei also boasts one of the two Hilo Hattie stores on the island, a must-stop for every visitor, if only for those inexpensive but oh-so-comfortable sandals they sell and the obligatory Macadamia nuts. There's also a Safeway here to provision your snack bar with back at your room, several starbucks, and a wide variety of places to eat.

Just to the south, Wailea is about one thing - luxury. One of two main resorts on-island (the other is on the west side), Wailea has the Four Seasons, the Grand Wailea, and a beautiful shopping center. Wailea also has some of the most expensive housing costs on Maui - while we were here, they were offering an ocean-view condo for $20,000,000 (yes, million). The area is well watered and lushly tropical, in sharp contrast to the dry hills above. The South Shore gets its abundance of water through an underground pipe from the northern part of the island.

Where to Stay

Dreams Come True on Maui

Wailea, 808-879-7099, 877-STAYMAUI
http://www.maui.net/~tcroly/
mauidreams@maui.net

Dreams Come True is owned by Tom and Denise, a very friendly couple, and sits above most of Wailea in a quiet residential neighborhood. The property is a beautifully landscaped half acre, with Mango, Papaya and Banana Trees and a quiet screened-in gazebo with a waterfall and several birds to provide a tropical atmosphere.

It features both a private cottage rental (at the base of the driveway, complete with ocean view and a wide private deck) and two b&b rooms in the main house. One of the B&B rooms has a screened in deck, and also a kitchenette. The property also features an outdoor shower, and an outdoor kitchen and barbeque that sit on a wide deck in front of the main house overlooking the ocean. There's a big-screen TV for guest use in the common room. This is a great choice for folks who want to stay in Wailea and enjoy the great year-round weather of the south shore - close to Little Beach, Maui's premier nude beach.

Where to Eat

Sarentos On The Beach

2980 South Kihei, 808-875-7555

This was our favorite place to eat on the South Shore. The beach views are terrific, and the food was excellent. The meal was a bit pricey (almost $100 for two, not including any alcoholic beverages) but this one's a great choice for a romantic dinner on the beach while you're on-island. A minor quibble - several friends commented, and we also noticed, that they tend to hover over you here. We timed it, and the longest it took for an empty sugar packet to be removed from the table was 45 seconds. The service is great, but they might want to try to back off just a little. But don't let that stop you - Sarentos is an excellent choice.

Polo Beach Grill & Bar

Fairmont Hotel, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-875-4100

The Fairmont Hotel, while fairly new, was built to look like a classic Hollywood Hotel. The grounds are fantastic, and the Polo Beach Grill sits above them with great poolside and ocean views. The food is overpriced (though not bad) - typical resort fare. But it's a great place for people watching, and the resort atmosphere is hard to beat.

Marco's Grill & Deli

1445 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808-874-4041

We had breakfast at Marco's - it's right on Kihei Road, and is in a gorgeous Itallian style building, but there's no real view here. The food was fair but overpriced, and the service so-so.

Sansei Restaurant

Kihei Town Center, Kihei, 808-669-6286

The folks at the Maui Visitor's Center suggested dinner here, and we're glad they did. The decor is stylish and fun, and the food was very good. Service was excellent, and although we didn't have sushi (not one of our favorites), we hear the sushi dishes are among the most inventive and well-done on Maui. There's also Karaoke on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at the Kihei location. If you're in Kapalua, try the Sansei's there. A great choice for a reasonably priced, flavorful dinner.

Where to Shop

The Shops at Wailea

3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, 808-891-6770
http://www.shopsatwailea.com
info@shopsatwailea.com

One of the nicest shopping centers on Maui is the Shops at Wailea. Built around a beautiful central courtyard and fountain, the Shops at Wailea features the kind of stores you'd expect on Fifth Avenue in New York or in downtown Beverly Hills, with a bit of an Island Flavor. You probably won't find much to buy here unless you have a rather large pocketbook - but hey, it's fun to look.

Western Maui

Click On Any Picture To See More

West Maui starts at the mountains above Wailuku (technically, the Iao Valley is in West Maui, but since the only access is from the Central Valley, we included it there). The ancient heart of West Maui was Lele, at one time the Royal Capital of the islands. Lele was the site of a great fishpond called the Mokulua, and was where the royal family lived. When the Europeans came, the diseases they brought with them decimated the local population, and the fish ponds were covered over in an effort to eradicate the mosquitoes in the area. Lahaina (Cruel Sun) grew up in the area where Lele had once flourished, and is now a tourist mecca on the west shore. For more on the area's history, see the Maui Nei tour section below.

Lahaina has a certain charm that comes from its colonial roots - it's still a small town, but with many places to shop and eat, and a number of shows and other activities for visitors to enjoy.

One of the great natural wonders on Maui is also here - the huge, multi-trunked banyan tree that sits in front of the Lahaina Harbor - come here on the right day, and you may find vendors selling a variety of Hawaiiana.

It takes about 20-25 minutes to get to Lahaina from Kihei, and the drive is mostly along the oceanside.

You'll see Lana'i Island across the water, as well as some beautiful mountain vistas and maybe even a cruise ship coming into Lahaina - there's no landing here big enough for these ships, so visitors are ferried ashore in small boats.

Just north of Maui are Kaanapali and Kapalua, which together make up the other major resort area on Maui. Kaanapali has some of the tallest buildings on Maui, and a great shopping center as well.

Kapalua has some beautiful (and expensive) resorts, as well as the homes of many wealthy and famous folks, including Kelsey Grammer (Frasier). It also has a Hawaiian burial ground and an intricate lava flow called the Dragon's Teeth - more on all of these below.


Where to Eat

BJ's Chicago Pizzaria

730 Front St., Lahaina, 808-661-0700

Great food, reasonable prices, great view - what more can we say? Plenty, apparently. Located on the second story just across from the Seawall, BJ's is right in the middle of Lahaina, and has fantastic views of the waterfront and the ocean. The decor is great too - there's a beautiful mural along one wall, and the place is fun and inviting. And the deep dish pizza is one of the best (if not the best) on the island. We ate here twice - and got out for about $30 total for the two of us each time. Great for lunch or an easy dinner.

Pacific 'O, I'O, Feast of Lele

505 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-667-4341

Three restaurants in one. Pacific 'O and I'O are right across from each other, and are owned by the same folks. We ate at Pacific 'O for lunch, and the food was great, but prices are a bit steep - lunch was $61 for two of us (no alcohol) - for dinner, add $20-20 more.

But the views are great, and you have a choice of indoor or outdoor eating. We didn't eat at I'O, but it offers similar views. Also here is the Feast at Lele - Lele was the old Hawaiian name for the area - again, we didn't try it, but it's a smaller beachside Luau, and looked quite good.

There's also good surfer watching here, too. :)

Hula Grill

2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Bldg P. (Whalers Village), Kaanapali, 808-667-6636
http://www.hulagrill.com/

Probably our favorite Hawaiian restaurant experience on Maui. While the restaurant offers a very nice indoor dining area, we sat outside: on the beach, with our feet in the sand, palapas rustling above us in the light breeze while blocking out the sun, listening to live Hawaiian slack key guitar music. It doesn't get much more relaxing than this - and the food was great too. For two, $26, no alcohol. Well worth the trip from Lahaina (just 5 minutes) on a beautiful afternoon.

Where to Shop

505 Front Street

505 Front St., Lahaina

At the southern edge of Lahaina, this center features Pacific 'O, I'O, and the Feast at Lele, mentioned above, as well as the Maui Nei Headquarters (see the Maui Walking Tour info below) and a number of other shops.


Lahaina Marketplace

Front St., Lahaina

Nestled in the middle of Lahaina, the Lahaina Marketplace is the kind of place you should visit after dark. No, it's not seedy - it's just that, like the International Marketplace in Waikiki, they light this place up at night, and it's just gorgeous.

There's also a movie theater here. If you're lucky, you may see one of the locals making some beautiful wood carvings at the front of the center.

Lahaina Center

900 Front St., Lahaina
http://lahainacenter.com/

The Lahaina Center is at the northern end of Front Street and Lahaina - and is home to one of our favorite Hawaiian stores - Hilo Hattie (their other store is in Kihei), and to the Warren & Annabelle's show as well. Also here is Hale Kahiko - kind of a miniature version of Kamokila, the demonstration village in Kauai - it's a free look at Hawaiian life, with several hawaiian houses, a canoe, and free weekly hula shows - see the website for schedules.



Old Lahaina Center

845 Wainee St., Lahaina
http://lahainacenter.com/old_lcdirectory.html

Across the street from the Lahaina Center, this is where the theater for 'ulalena is (see What to See below) - and there's also a Starbucks and a grocery store here.

Lahaina Cannery Mall

Front St. & Honopiilani Hwy, Lahaina
http://www.lahainacannery.com/

Maui's only fully enclosed air-conditioned shopping mall, this is a small Mall, but it has a nice, airy design. There's a great Hawaiian Products store called Maui Island Creations here - stop in and take a look. They also offer free hula shows every Tuesday at 7 PM, and free Keiki (Children) Hula Shows at 1 PM every Saturday and Sunday.

Whalers Village

2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Kaanapali
http://www.whalersvillage.com/

This is a great open-air shopping center in Kaanapali, just north of Lahaina. In front of the center is a full-size whale skeleton, giving homage to the area's history as a whaling center. There's also a whaling museum here that's worth a look if you have any interest in nautical history. Hula's Grill is here, so take a few minutes to stroll through the center if you're here for lunch.

Mind's Eye Interiors

Mind's Eye Square, 1068 Limahana Pl. Ste 2, Lahaina 808-667-7748

Simply the coolest furniture store we saw on-island, with an amazing array of home furnishings. Right across from the Lahaina Cannery Mall, well worth a look, even if you don't plan to lug an easy chair back home on the plane with you.

What to See

Maui Walking Tour - Maui Nei

505 Front Street, Ste 234, Lahaina, 808-661-9494
http://www.mokuula.com
http://www.mauinei.com
mauinei@mokuula.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

Maui Nei is a non-profit group working to restore Moku'ula - the King's Island. Hundreds of years ago, when Lahaina was called Lele and was the home of Hawaii's Royalty, the King lived on an island in the middle of a large fishpond, and Lele was one of the main cultural centers of ancient Hawaii.

Unfortunately, when the Europeans came, they brought with them diseases for which the native Hawaiians had no immunity. Thousands died, and eventually the pond and island were covered over to eliminate the mosquitoes that carried these diseases.

Flash forward several hundred years, and Maui Nei is working with the county of Maui and the town of Lahaina to restore the pond and island. The land has been transferred back to the Hawaiian people, and a baseball field which sits on top of part of the site is being relocated so that work to restore this vital part of Hawaiian history can begin.

Maui Nei exists to forward this vision, and some work at the site has already begun, with non-native plants being removed from the site and the placement of a plaque to remind all island residents and visitors of the importance of this historical site. Over the next year, work should accelerate as the baseball field is removed and excavation begun on-site.

To support this effort, Mau Nei offers walking tours of Lahaina, showing visitors what remains of the ancient Hawaiian sites in the area. Starting at the site of the brick house the King had built to meet with his European visitors (he would return to his own cooler Hawaiian home to sleep at night), you'll see where the old stream ran from the pond, the last breadfruit tree in Lahaina (the area used to be filled with them), hear some of the mythology and history of the West Maui Mountains, and see the site of the King's Island, Moku'ula.

Our guide was a native Hawaiian whose family was given responsibility for the land that stretches from Mauna Kahalawai (the west Maui mountains) down to Lahaina, and his family still maintains part of that land. His responsibility for the land has survived the addition of European laws and US laws that were laid down over old Hawaiian law, and he and his wife live on the land his ancestors cared for up the valley.

The Iao Valley is on the Eastern side of these mountains, and the Iao Needle represented the male genetalia in Hawaiian mythology. There's also a valley on the west side of these mountains that resembles a woman's genetalia, making the space in between a sacred spot where the male and female essences intermingled. There's also a mountain that resembles a sleeping lizard - see the pictures page for an outline of its form.

Maui Nei envisions a thriving cultural center on the site, where native Hawaiians can come to learn the arts and rituals of their forebearers, and where tourists can see what the old Hawaii was really like. It will be a fantastic addition to Lahaina, giving this mostly commercial town a heart.

The tour is very enlightening, especially if you don't know much of Hawaiian history, and supports a worthwhile cause - we can't wait to come visit in a few years, as this vision of a resurrected piece of Maui's past comes to fruition.

Old Lahaina Luau

1251 Front Street, Lahaina, 800-248-5828
http://www.oldlahainaluau.com/index_main.html
info@oldlahainaluau.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

This is hands-down the best Luau we've ever been to - great food, atmosphere, and entertainment. The only complaint we were able to come up with is that we didn't want it to end.

The Luau is right by the beach, across the street from the Lahaina Cannery Mall at the northern end of Lahaina. Get there early for good parking.

The grounds are gorgeous - you're greeted with a beautiful floral lei, and then enter through a huge thatched-roof hall where souveniers are for sale. There's very little waiting - these folks have learned how to move people efficiently. You can get your picture taken as you enter - these photos are available for purchase after the show.

Once you're inside, you can really appreciate the layout and location. The Luau is held right next to the beach, and seating is spacious compared to every other Luau we've attended. We had great seats - thanks to the Maui Visitors Bureau and the Old Lahaina Luau guys for this.

The stage is a half circle bowed out toward the audience, and there are some Hawaiian musicians playing while everyone enters. The seats closest to the stage are at low tables - seating is on the ground, allowing the folks in the higher tables/chairs behind an unimpeded view. As far as we could tell, there wasn't a bad seat in the place - but the first or second rows would be best, depending on if you wanted a cushion or chair to sit on. Seats are reserved, so be sure to ask where your seats are when buying tickets.

The evening starts out with drinks - a variety of slushy alcoholic concoctions and the usual sodas, etc... our favorite was the Lava Flow, a strawberry/pina colada mix (ours was non-alcoholic) that was visually rather cool.

Drinks are served at your table by the handsome shirtless waiters who attend to each table throughout the Luau; you can also order a variety of drinsk for yourself at the bar in the middle of the grounds.

There are a number of vendors on the beachfront path selling Hawaiian crafts, including hand-woven baskets and wood carving - the Luau encourages you to wander around a bit while the meal is prepared, and the open feeling of the grounds encourages exploration.

Then everyone's called over to see the pig being unearthed from its underground oven. Once the meal is ready, folks are taken through in an efficient manner - in less than half an hour, everyone has been served.

The food was fantastic, especially considering the huge portions that must be prepared each evening. The pork was succulent, and the menu included Poi, Ahi, Sweet Potato, Top Sirloin, Chicken, Crab Salad, and a number of other delectable treats.

Once everyone's eaten, dessert is served at each table - the night we were there, they served four separate desserts, each in a small portion for each guest, and all were wonderful.

The lights go down, the musicians file in again, and the dancing begins. Starting with the oldest dances and costumes, the night progresses as the dancers tell some of the legends and stories of Hawaii:

Ote'a: the early migration of Polynesians across the Pacific to Hawaii

Kahiko: ancient Hula, used to communicate with the Gods, accompanied by chanting and traditional implements, performed with respect for Hawaiian ancestors. There's a great arc in the middle about Pele and her sister that we particularly enjoyed.

Missionaries and the Merrie Monarch: Grass skirts and bare male chests give way to more modest, formal attire ushered in after contact with the Europeans.

'Auana: the modern Hula, influenced by immigrants and tourism.

The women are enchanting, the way they move, using the hula to tell a story. And the men are handsome, beautifully tanned masculine dancers who are a joy to watch.

The Old Lahaina Luau takes great pride in presenting authentic Hawaiian hula - so you won't see polynesian fire dancing here. The Luau started in 1986 at a different location, but after a scathing review in 1993, the owners took it apart from top to bottom and rethought everything from the dancing to the grounds to the menu, and the results are phenomenal.

The owners also have several other ventures, including the Aloha Mixed Plate restaurant and a partial stake in the Feast at Lele (see 505 Front Street in the shopping section above).

The evening ends too soon, despite the fact that it lasts two and a half hours. This was the last thing we did on Maui, and it was a wonderful end to our trip - highly recommended as a must-see while on Maui.

Cost is $88.54 for adults and $57.29 for children - and worth every penny.

'ulalena

878 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-661-9913, 877-688-4800
http://www.mauitheatre.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

Enchanting. This show tells the story of the people of Maui, from the original polynesian colonists right through to European occupation. While not strictly historically accurate (the show never mentions the Menehune, Hawaii's original human inhabitants, among other things) the show is beautifully staged and performed, and in parts it rises to excellence.

No meal is served, so plan dinner beforehand at one of the local restaurants.

Cirque du Soliel has an interest of some sort in this show, and the relationship shows. Like Cirque productions, the show is filled with colorful costumes and staging and Hawaiian music.

The show's name, 'ulalena, is the name for a wind peculiar to Maui that brings a golden-red mist at twilight, and seems to symbolize change and a connection with the past, both history and legend.

The story starts with the polynesian settlers, and mixes history with mythology, as Pele watches over the islands and the taro fields and bamboo stands come to life. Time passes, and Captain Cook comes to Hawaii, bringing the modern world with him. Dancers enact the work in the fields done by the latest immigrants from China, ther Phillipines, and other places. But ultimately, the tale ends on a hopeful note, that what is the best of Maui and the Hawaiian Islands will endure.

There's one scene about two thirds of the way through the 75 minute show that is absolutely stunning in its beauty.

It's simply done - a dancer spins around midair ina ring, while three dancers lay below beneath a white sheet that has the turquoise blue waters of Maui's bays projected down on it. Each of the dancers moves their hands and legs under the sheet to simulate waves.

It sounds a bit cheesy, but the effect is amazing - it's like watching the waves stir gently on a moonlit night. Toward the end of the scene, the dancers dissapear behind the curtain, and the sheet pulls back and away, and the effect so perfectly mimics the receeding surf that we were left breathless.

The dancers are skilled and beautiful to watch, and the entire production is enjoyble - take the time to see this show while you're on Maui.

Adults $58 premium, $48 standard; Children $38 premium, $28 standard; child under 3 can share seat with an adult free. Well worth the price.


Warren & Annabelle's

900 Front Street, Lahaina Center, Lahaina, 808-667-6245
http://www.warrenandannabelles.com/

We went to this show with high expectations - our guide book proclaimed it "the single most amazing show in Hawaii", and our neighbors really enjoyed it as well. It is a lot of fun, though it didn't quite live up to the hype. You enter the lounge via a special room ala the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland; there's a trick to getting in which we won't reveal here. The lounge is done up like an old-time draweing room, with many comfortable seats on several levels - we ended up in the "library". If you ordered the meal with the show, you're served it here - the meal adds $27-35 to each ticket's $45 cost. While we didn't have the meal, the folks next to us did, and though it was good, they didn't think it was worth the extra cost, so consider eating elsewhere, before or after.

"Annabelle" is the resident ghost, and she takes requests and playes them on the piano in the middle of the room. Men, try the bathroom out - you may get more than you bargained for at the urinal stalls.

After dinner is served and finished, everyone makes their way into the theater, where Warren, the magician, performs a number of impressive tricks. He's a comedian too, and keeps you well entertained during the show.

Overall, the show is reasonably priced (without dinner) and is enjoyable and amusing, if not the best show on Maui in our minds. Worth the time if you have an extra night in Maui after seeing the Old Lahaina Luau and 'ulalena.

Dragon's Teeth & Honokahua

Makalua-Puna Point, Kapalua

Two great things to see here in Kapalua, 15 minutes north of Lahain. Thanks to Maui Revealed (the guidebook we used) for putting us on to these sights.

There's a turnout and parking lot where Lower Honoapiilani Road becomes Office Road. Park here and walk along the edge of the golf course. You'll come to a large grassy area first fronted by a plaque - this is the Honokahua burial ground. Several thousand ancient Hawaiians were buried here, and rediscovered when the Ritz Carlton Hotel broke ground. After several years of acrimonous court battles, the hotel was eventually built farther away from the shore - andf the state of Hawaii created a commission to deal with any future such sites, to protect the ancient Hawaiian heritage. This is a sacred place for the Hawaiian people - please respect that and do not enter this area. But do take a moment to read the plaque there.

Walk a bit further toward the water and you'll see the Dragon's Teeh - an unusual lava formation created by the wind and sea. The lava rock here has been bleached by sun and rain, and sculpted into fascinating shapes, including the "teeth" along the waterline that give this point its name.

Walk carefully here, but do take the time to explore this amazing natural wonder.

Whale Watching

If you're in Maui in the winter, there's a great whale watching spot between Ma'alaea Village and Lahaina - just past the mile 8 marker.

We arrived at the very start of the season, and altho we didn't spot any whales ourselves, a guy we met at the Old Lahaina Luau had seen several from his hotel room in Kaanapali.


What to Read

Here are a few resources we found helpful during our visit to Maui. Please remember that the advice in these resources is AYOR - use caution when visiting the harder-to-reach parts of the island, and respect property owners' rights.

Maui Revealed

http://www.wizardpub.com/

One of the Wizard Publications books about the Hawaiian Islands. We've loved these guidebooks ever since we used the Kauai book for our first trip to the island. Wizard is a local outfit based in Kauai, and their books are full of color photos and are extremely easy to flip through and find great things to do. They also seem to have the skinny on all the secret spots on the island, and the book is full of detailed maps that show everything in relation to mile markers along the highways - a definite help when trying to find some of the out-of-the-way places.

Get a copy of this book and read through it before your Maui trip - then take it and use it religiously on the road. A must-have.

50 Thrifty Maui Restaurants

http://www.watermarkpublishing.net/catalog.html#thrifty

A great guide to some of the less expensive (and often lesser known) places to eat on Maui.








The Ready Mapbook of Maui County

http://www.geckofarms.com/hawaiimaps/MauiOverview.htm

Kind of a Thomas Guide to Maui - this book shows the island's streets in terrific detail - great if you need to get around some of Maui's back roads.






Maui Visitors Bureau

http://www.visitmaui.com/

These folks were hugely helpful to us in setting up a number of the tours and events we were able to enjoy while on-island. Check their website for great Maui info, and don't hesitate to email them if you have any questions about the Valley Isle.

Historic Thomasville, Georgia
A Step Back In Time
by Linda S. Manning, Author & Photographer, Innkeeper at The Kitt Shepley House, Newport, RI
Email Linda Visit the Kitt Shepley House Website
Visit the Georgia Section on Altraverse

Thomasville, Georgia takes pride in the good life by way of clean air, thousands of Pine, Oak and Dogwood trees and hundred’s of varieties of Rose bushes. With low crime and an affordable cost of living, Thomasville is a draw for the newly retired or trend setters of today. A population in the region of 20,000 and a four season climate with an average high of 78° and an average low of 55°, Thomasville is located less than 3 hours from Jacksonville, Florida, 45 miles W of I-75 at Valdosta, Georgia, 35 miles NE of Tallahassee, Florida and in the center of what is referred to as the Red Hills.

The drive from Jacksonville, Florida in January 2005 along Highway 10 for 132 miles was uneventful with little to see along the way. As my husband and I drove out of the rain to blue skies with few clouds and a temperature of 68°, our route took us to US19 through the small town of Monticello. As we progressed on US19, the picture was constantly changing. Since the land is known to have very fertile soil and is surrounded by tall long-leaf pines you can smell the crispness of the surroundings. We viewed the infamous red clay lining the perimeter of the highway as we passed Meadow Lake Farms (catering to small horses), Tree Farms, Orchards, and Wild Ridge Plantation.

As we passed the Thomasville Rose Garden we couldn’t help but think how spectacular the gardens would look while in bloom. Old stately Victorians stood tall and majestic as we traveled to our overnight destination, The Dawson Street Inn, beautifully appointed with period antiques and that special attention to detail. Visit them at www.dawsonstinn.com

The history of Thomasville is a captivating chronicle. It was said that Major General Jet Thomas, a member of the State Militia during the War of 1812 named the area Thomasville. At that time, it became the center of educational, socio/economic, political and religious activities.

The rich land permitted the formation of plantations and had a rigid and static society based on cotton. Although never totally dependent on cotton, during the Civil War it supplied men and goods for the cause. 

When the railroad evolved, Thomasville was then accessible from the north. During the late 1800’s as a winter resort the area offered such sports as hunting, fishing and an active social life. Visitors came for health reasons and to inhale the pine scented air. In addition, the area offered some of the most luxuriously appointed hotels of America’s Gilded Age. Thomasville was noted as the ‘Original Winter Resort of the South.’

Winter cottages such as The Lapham-Patterson House, a State Historic Site built in 1885 is a true example of Victorian engineering and craftsmanship with its fish scale shingles and visible engineering and craftsmanship throughout. Visit www.gastateparks.org.

Many who came to Thomasville during that time built magnificent mansions and plantations many of which are still owned today by the families who built them. Of course you can’t depart Thomasville without a tour of Pebble Hill Plantation just 5 miles from the center of town and located on over 3,000 acres of land. A romantic, historic and artistic plantation,  www.pebblehill.com  was the winter home to the Hanna family from Cleveland. It is a testimony to the sporting life in the beginning of the 20th century boasting hundreds of horse paintings, prints and Audubon prints. The main house has over 40 rooms, some majestic and alluring. The Visitors Center located on the grounds hosts a 15 minute video as an overview of the history of the plantation. The plantation has several buildings including The Cow Barn, Stables, Carriage House, Carpenter’s Shop, Gardens, a Fire Engine House and many more.

Today, Thomasville is home to the famous Main Street which is actually a collection of streets in the center of town. Visit www.downtownthomasville.com  as the town was chosen by the National Main Street Center as one of the ‘Great American Main Streets,’ one of 5 towns in the nation.  Stroll the brick paved streets to visit an abundance of specialty shops, antiques stores and restaurants.

Located on US84 and billed as the second largest Farmer’s Market, also offering The Market Diner on the same grounds is a true testament of southern cooking. A hearty buffet of okra, collard greens, turnips, butter beans, black eyed peas, fried chicken, BBQ pork, cornbread and the luscious Red Velvet cake are few of the items that will tantalize your pallet.

George and Louie’s, a fresh seafood restaurant on Remington offer a casual atmosphere full to capacity with art deco metal chairs and wood tables accented with white walls, ceiling fans and 30 pair of floor to ceiling windows with 15 panes each topped with an ornamental transom.  Ordering from the counter comes with the fresh aroma of the seafood plates whether fried or grilled, paired with the Original Louie’s Greek salad. Although the food was served on paper plates and plastic ware, it was not a sacrifice for taste. The grilled combination seafood platter should not be overlooked.

Our final culinary tour ends with Saturday evening dinner at ‘The Best New Dining Discovery 2003’ recipient of Georgia Trend Magazine for Liam’s Restaurant on E. Jackson. A petite sized restaurant with eclectic flair, an ever-changing menu and service with a plus is open for lunch and diner with Chef Scott Foster and Manager Rhonda Foster.  Decorated with local artists paintings Liam’s offers an atmosphere with attention to detail. I ordered the World Cheese Board as one of its collections of cheeses from around the world. Tonight’s offering, Farmstead Garroxta, a combination of goat and sheep’s milk from Catalonia, Spain had a creamy texture that went well with (BYOB) a glass of Black Swan from Australia. An entrée of New Zealand Rack of Lamb was perfectly prepared and served with Ratatouille, lavender gastrique. My husband ordered the Grilled Beef Tenderloin which melted in your mouth and was served with fresh asparagus and a red wine sauce. It was a pleasant experience with the best service and personality, we highly recommend Liam’s.  They can be reached at email address, 2otters@rose.net.

The following day we visited Thomasville’s majestic ‘The Big Oak’ said have started from a tiny acorn, born in 1685. The limb span spreads to 162’ and has a trunk circumference of 24’, massive and intriguing.

Our visit to Thomasville although only a few days were crowned with highlights of charm, character and history neatly packed into a small town. 

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