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See the Last Newsletter: October 2004
See the Next Newsletter: February 2005

January 2005 - Volume 3, Issue 1

Welcome to the Altraverse Travel Newsletter. This month, we have a number of features:

We're also looking for articles about places around the globe - if you're a traveler and want to share your experiences, or an innkeeper with intimate knowledge of your area, let us know - we'd love to put you into the next newsletter!

That's it for now - enjoy!

-- Mark & Scott & the Altraverse Staff

British Columbia Part Two: Vancouver

Click here for Vancouver Accommodations on Altraverse.com
http://www.altraverse.com/rg/canada/britishcolumbia/canbcvancouver.html

click on any city on the map below, or just scroll down

view our panoramic picture of Vancouver - click below

Vancouver is one of the cleanest major metro areas we’ve been to yet, rivalling Chicago for safe, smell-free streets.  We visited several areas in Vancouver, but there are many others you may want to explore – West Vancouver (the most expensive postal code in Canada), North Vancouver, Burnaby and Surrey in the metro region; Whistler and the Sunshine Coast just north.  But here are the areas where we did spend some time:

The West End

Click On Any Picture To See More

Vancouver’s West End was the first official suburb of the city – in fact, the city officials at the time petitioned the federal government (with the help of one of the Railroad barons who was politically well connected) to transfer what was then a military reserve to the new city, to enhance land values in the West End.  The reserve became Stanley Park, one of the nicest large urban parks in North America.

The West End is politically very liberal (one of our innkeepers mentioned more conservative friends who were shocked that she would raise children there), and includes two of the three main gay/lesbian areas, Davie Street and Denman Street, as well as one of the nicer shopping districts, Robson Street.

The West End is uniformly safe – we walked through the whole area several times, day and night.  In fact, most folks seemed very happy to see us, as was the case in Victoria.

There are also Starbucks everywhere – these make reliable washroom (they don't call them restrooms here) stops, by the way. 

Where to Stay

Nelson House B&B

977 Broughton St., Vancouver, 604-684-9793, 866 684-9793
http://www.downtownbedandbreakfast.com
info@downtownbedandbreakfast.com

Click On Any Picture To See More

We stayed at Nelson House for two nights.  Open since 1990. Nelson House has a terrific location for folks visiting Davie Street and Robson Street (billed as the Rodeo Drive of the city) – it’s actually on Broughton, just a couple houses up from Nelson, and is pretty much equidistant to Robson and Davie. Rates are moderate and the surroundings are warm and unpretentious.

It’s also an easy walk to downtown, the Sea Wall, and Stanley Park.  The neighborhood is very quiet, although (as with any urban inn) you will occasionally hear sirens and minor street noise.

The house is a three story victorian, with the common areas (sitting room and dining room) on the ground floor.

Lynn or David serve a full breakfast each morning in the beautiful dining room on the ground floor. The sitting room offers high speed internet access via ethernet – just plug in your laptop and go.

David runs the inn with help from his business partner, Ingrid, and Lynn, his new assistant, and both are very friendly and eager to help visitors to get oriented.

There are several bedrooms on the second floor that share a bath; the third floor is a single unit where we stayed, and has its own ensuite bath.  The bathroom in the upstairs suite has no shower, but it does have a jacuzzi tub with a spray attachment.

The top floor unit is an open plan, with a queen-sized bed at one end, a sitting area with TV, VCR and fireplace in the middle, and a single bed on the far end with a small desk and chair.

It would be a great space for three folks traveling together, or two friends (as long as you take turns with the queen size bed) and it provided a lot of room for a couple like us.

There’s a full closet as well with a dresser, so there’s plenty of room to settle in.  The décor is nicely done; comfortable furniture and a warm, deep red make the whole room feel very cozy, especially when you light the gas fireplace. 

The desk has a view of the street for people watching; the other side of the unit, where the bed is, also has a small porch.  Opening windows on both ends provides a great cross breeze to cool the room off after a warm summer day. 

The room also has a kitchenette with microwave, sink and small refrigerator, although we ended up eating out every meal while we were here. 

There’s also a shared jacuzzi on the back deck - soak away the day's sightseeing and meet some of the other guests!

If you want to stay in the middle of the west end, in walking distance to everything, Nelson House B&B is a good choice, with friendly innkeepers and beautifully decorated, well maintained rooms. together.

Where to Eat

The West End has many of places to eat. We heard terrific things about Random and Delilahs, both in the West End, from several innkeepers, but didn’t make it to either in the limited time we had. For folks who just want familiar US fare, there's a Macaroni Grill at the west end of Davie Street in the beautiful Roger's Sugar House Building.

We only ate on Davie Street once:

Luxy Bistro

1235 Davie St. Vancouver, 604 669-5899

Luxy servers Italian cuisine, and the food here was good, with a nice ambiance. The restaurant is conventiently located in the middle of Davie Street.  Our waiter here was an actor up from the states, and had been in an X-Files show as well as a number of other TV productions.

What to See

Click On Any Picture To See More

The West End is full of great things to do and places to see – here are just a few of them that we tried and enjoyed:

Stanley Park

While not an official part of the West End, Stanley Park is connected to it and easily accessible from any of the accommodations there on foot.  The park is huge (1,000 acres) and was originally a military reserve created to counter perceived American agression when the United States settled the San Juan Islands in the 1800’s.  Riddled with trails, the park is a great spot for a Carriage Ride, horseback riding, hiking, and many other outdoor sports. 

There’s a bug cannon called the nine o’clock gun that’s fired at 9 PM every night, originally to remind fishermen that it was time to come to port.  And there are also several restaurants in the park with water views.

We didn’t have enough time to really explore the park, but we did take the drive around it, which took about fifteen minutes plus stops.

If you do have time, consider walking the Seawall, which runs all the way from the downtown area along the west end, then around Stanley Park and finally back towards downtown.

If you like the outdoors, plan to spend at least a day here – there’s also the Vancouver Aquarium, which we plan to visit on our next trip to Vancouver.

Where to Shop

A few notes about shopping in Canada for visitors from other countries: the Canadian dollar is typically a little weaker than the US dollar, which means you can get some great buys in Canada. At the time we were there, the rate was about .77 US dollars to 1 Canadian, which means we got a 23% "discount" on all purchases. But if you're not a Canadian resident, you also have to declare them when you come back through customs, which can be a hassle, so consider having the shopkeeper ship them back to you at home - this also helps because you don't have to carry your purchases around.

You're also eligible for a tax rebate from the Canadian government if you aren't a Canadian resident, and plan to take the item home with you to your own country. Basically you have to spend over $200 Canadian on qualifying goods and/or accommodations and at least $50 per receipt. For more informaton go here: http://victoria.rezrez.com/tax/index.htm

Also, most places in BC take US dollars or Canadian dollars - if you give them US dollars, they convert the amount and give you the change in Canadian money, which can result in some strange situations, like when we bought some postcards with a US $20 and were given a Canadian $20 and some change in return. You can also take out Canadian money at any ATM using your US ATM card, and you can use your US credit card to pay for things - your credit card company will do the conversion for you. So go with your ATM and credit cards and some US cash, and just pick up a little Canadian money as you go.

You may run into a few places that won't do the conversion, in which case you may end up paying the Canadian price in US dollars, so do get a little Canadian money when you arrive in Canada.

There are some great places to go for shopping in the West End – including:

Davie Street

We’ll start with the gayest street in British Columbia.  Davie Street (from Burrard to about Broughton) is one of the longest gay stretches of street we’ve yet seen in our travels, and it is positively packed with restaurants (greek and italian seem to predominate), bars, and small shops – no Pottery Barn or Gap here.

For people watching, try the Starbucks at the corner of Davie and Thurlow – they’re open until 3 am, and there’s a great bar at the window that you can sit at to watch the crowds go by.  We also spent almost an hour talking outside, sitting alongside the storefront and checking out the scene.

There’s a great mix of folks here – gay and lesbian folks of all stripes, as well as a nice mix of straight folks as well. Come in the evening in the summer and watch the street come alive at night (though we have to say that there’s a fair amount of traffic in the daytime too, unlike some of the other gay ghettos we’ve visited).

For folks who like historical architecture, check out the Rogers’s sugar house on the west end of the strip, a block or two down from the last of the shops on the north side of the street.  Although it’s now occupied by a production restaurant (Macaroni Grill) the building itself is unique and beautiful… once home to the heirs of the Rogers sugar fortune.

Robson Street

Billed as the Rodeo Drive of Vancouver, Robson still has a bit ofwork to do before it can meet that high standard.  But you will find high end shops here (like the Armani Exchange) and chain stores (like the Gap).  The main stretch runs from about Nicola on the west side to Granville Street downtown.  Robson is home to four Starbucks, two right across the street from each other – believe it or not, each has it own loyal clientele, and both do fantastic business. This was the place Starbucks started this strategy, after realizing that traffic patterns could help sustain several stores in close proximity, as long as each was casrefully placed to capture a separate group of passers-by.

The street is busy all day, but at dusk, as the lights come on, it transforms from an interesting but not particularly memorable street to a magical shopping playground.  Although we didn’t eat here, the menu at Cin Cin looked good – high end northern Italian (seafood) dishes in an absolutely beautiful atmosphere, with a second story balcony seating area offering great people watching out over Robson.  Entrée prices averaged $30-40 Canadian per person.

Curiously, Robson is a must-see for Japanese students, many of whom apparently fly over from Japan just to see and be seen on Robson.  We found little of interest here shopping wise (merchandise tends toward women’s boutique stores) but it was a fun place to see.

Downtown

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Downtown Vancouver is a patchwork of districts, all in a compact space that's easily walkable from one end to another, and is by and large very safe for pedestrians (with the exception of East Hastings Street, which a guidebook and several locals told us was a drug district).

There are several major shopping centers downtown, as well as a great downtown viewpoint, many wonderful restaurants, and lots more to see and do.

You can walk into downtown from the West End in about 15 minutes, or just hop a taxi downtown.

We didn't visit any accommodations in this part of Vancouver, but check our accommodations section for the city for several options.

One area we were recommended to see but didn't was Gastown, a historic district of town that's become a bit touristy of late, but may still rate a visit.

Downtown is also filled with great architecture - many old Victorian style buildings and lots of new styles as well. The city feels very cosmopolitan and urban but clean.

On our first day there, we ran into an anti war protest coming into downtown on Robson Street, so there's a lot of political citizen involvement in Vancouver as well.

Where to Eat

We found a great little italian restaurant in Yaletown:

Amarcord

2201 W 1st Ave, Vancouver, 604 738-6515

A great, reasonably priced, cute little Italian restaurant, Amacord caught our eye when we visited Yaleyown, the yuppie enclave of Vancouver's downtown. The service was great, and the food was excellent.

The restaurant is across the street from a new condo development, and it's rumored that the construction crew is working day and night because a celebrity has purchased the penthouse unit and is impatient to move in. But the restaurant is excellently soundproofed, so you can enjoy dinner in peace and watch the building go up across the street.

Where to Shop

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The West End is full of great things to do and places to see – here are just a few of them that we tried and enjoyed:

Harbour Centre Tower

555 W. Hastings St., Vancouver

Hands down the best public viewpoint to be found in downtown is at Harbor Centre Tower - for about $20 Canadian each, you can enjoy a 360 degree view of the city, and an aerial tour of British Columbia on a looped video presentation (although the video quality is rather poor, FYI).

Worth it just for the bird's eye view of the downtown area.

Yaletown

Bounded by Davie, Homer, Nelson & Cambie Streets, Vancouver

Yaletown was an old warehouse district that's been reborn as a hip, urban shopping and nightlife district in downtown Vancouver. Former loading docks have been converted into brick-lined outdoor cafes, and small boutiques and night spots line the two cozy streets that make up this district. We found Yaletown to be one of the most charming districts in Vancouver, and a great place to eat (see Amacord above) though some of the other restaurants are fairly pricey.

Pacific Centre

550-700 W. Georgia Street, Vancouver, 604 688-7235
http://www.pacificcentre.com

This is your basic shopping mall, but it does have some cool features.

It's entirely underground (it runs under several blocks of downtown); it has a three story fountain at one end that you can stand behind (at the food court) and it's attached to the historic Eatons Building, an old department store building that now houses Sears, a great place to go when you need some extra last-minute socks and underwear.

Ok, so we have to pack better next time <grin>.

Sinclair Centre

757 W. Hastings St. at Granville, Vancouver, 604 683-1311
http://www.sinclaircentre.com

The coolest by far of the shopping centers we saw on this trip, Sinclair Centre is actually four historic buildings that were blended together to create one shopping centre, with a spectacular covered central courtyard.

With more upscale shopping than Pacific Center, you may only come here to gawk, but make sure this one's on your list for a short visit.


Canada Place

999 Canada Place Way, Vancouver, 604 682-4629
http://www.canadaplace.ca

Built for Expo '86, this Vancouver landmark resembles a huge sailing ship, and houses the city's IMAX Theater, as well as the Pan Pacific Hotel.

Although we didn't make it inside this trip, it looked like it was worth at least a quick visit next time!

Granville Island

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Granville Island is a small island directly across False Creek from downtown Vancouver. It sits directly underneath the Granville Bridge, and is accessible from the Downtown side via water taxi (you can also take water taxis to various other points up and down False Creek). For those without sealegs, the "island" is also accessible from the south by car, where it attaches to the mainland.

Once an industrial park, Granville Island began its transformation in the late 1970's - in fact, two of the original industrial businesses, a cement factory and a drill manufacturer, still remain on the island. But most of the island is now filled with small boutiques, restaurants, and other local businesses.

The island is filled with converted warehouses, many painted in bright hues of blue, yellow, and red. Its tree-lined streets are all lined with pave stones, giving the whole island a wonderful charm. While we didn'f find anything to take home with us here, we really enjoyed the ambiance of the island.

The Granville Theater is here, as are the Sport Fishing Museum, Model Trains Museum, and Model Ships Museum. There are live musicians tucked here and there around the island, and there are a number of things for kids to see and do, including the Kid's Market at the entrance to the island.

The Emily Carr Institute of Art and Design is also here, with student housing, so Granville Island has a resident art student population you'll see all over the island.

Parking here can be tight, so you may want to come early, or take the water taxi over from downtown - catch one from below the Granville Bridge for $2-4, depending on your destination.

click here for a map of the island | click here for the map directory

More info available at: http://www.granvilleisland.com.

 Where to Eat

The Sandbar Restaurant

1535 Johnston St, Granville Island, Vancouver 604 669-9030
http://www.mysandbar.com/home.html

The food was very good. The restaurant is a multi-level building on the edge of the island, overlooking False Creek and downtown, and the view is spectacular at night as the city lights up.

What to See

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The Mound

The Mound is a grassy hill on the eastern-most tip of Granville Island that doubles ad an outdoor amphitheater. with the waters of False Creek as its backdrop.

With a view of downtown. this is a terrific picnic location - bring a lunch with you on a nice sunny day and relax a bit here before jumping back in to your vacation.

Where to Shop

The Public Market

http://www.granvilleisland.com/en/about/topmusts/publicmarket

The Public Market is another stand-out here - basically a hall full of vendors, this is a great place to find fresh local cuisine - fruits, vegetables, seafood, spices, and much more were on display here.

The whole thing had a kind of festival feel to it, with folks bustling through the aisles and sometimes haggling with vendors for the best deals.

South of Downtown

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There's a whole 'nuther world outside downtown, including North Vancouver, Whistler, the Sunshine Coast, Burnaby, Tsawassen, and more. We only had time to visit the area just south of downtown - home to the airport, the huge Pacific Spirit Park, Kitsilano, Shaughnessy where you'll find some wonderful historic architecture in the early 20th century homes), and several great shopping districts.

Where to Stay

Pacific Spirit B&B

4080 W. 35th Ave, Vancouver, 604 261-6837, 866-768-6837
http://www.vanbb.com
info@vanbb.com

Bernadette and Peter gave us a warm welcome, with an appetizer tray of wonderful berries, grapes and other fruit.  The B&B is just half a block from the University of BC’s endowment lands – called Pacific Park, this is a huge, forested park criss-crossed with a number of trails.  Pacific Spirit is the only certified pet-friendly B&B in the Vancouver area, and the park is a great place for dogs to roam with their owners.

The B&B is a welcoming homestay type of environment, and the rooms were immaculately clean and reasonably priced.  The B&B is just 15 minutes by car from downtown.  Perfect for travelers with pets, and anyone with business at the University, active outdoor enthusiasts, and folks who want a very friendly, comfortable home stay.

 Where to Eat

Seasons in the Park

Queen Elizabeth Park, West 33rd Avenue at Cambie Street, Vancouver, 800 632-9422
http://www.seasonshilltopbistro.com/home.html

Seasons is in the middle of Queen Elizabeth Park, with a great view of the city atop a lush, tree-covered hill. Eat outside on the deck on a sunny day and enjoy a cheery fire in the outdoor fireplace. The food here was excellent, and the service was great. There's a bit of history here too - Bill Clinton and Boris Yeltsin ate here during the 1995 Vancouver Summit, and theres a nice plaque commemorating the event.

Orange Corner

2257 West 41st Avenue, Kerrisdale, Vancouver

Originating in Taiwan in the early 1980's, Bubble Tea has become a big fad in Vancouver. We tried it at this little crepes shop in Kerrisdale - it was the weirdest, coolest thing on the whole trip (at least, Scott thinks so). Basically, flavored tapioca "bubbles" are added to a sweetened tea.

You drink the tea through a big straw, and as you drink, the bubbles pop up the straw and into your mouth. The closest thing we can think of to this is the Orbitz drink that was out in stores during the late '90's, with a sweetened water filled with little dots of gelatin that suspended in the drink. Anyhow, try it once while you're here - you may get hooked! Or you may just go "eeew."

What to See

H.R. MacMillan Space Centre & the Cancouver Museum

1100 Chestnut St., Vanier Park, Kitsilano, Vancouver, 604 736-4431

The Vancouver Museum is the city's oldest, and is filled with First Nations art and artifacts, as well as local and commercial art. Next door is the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre, with exhibits on space and space exploration, a motion simulator which takes you on a simulated mission to mars, and a small planetarium. A great place to take kids or for inquisitive adults alike.

Jericho Beach Park/Kitsilano

With a stretch of white sand overlooking the Strait of Georgia, Stanley Park and the West End and Downtown Vancouver, this is a great summertime spot to come and relax by the water. Bring a picnic lunch and take a break from your vacation here.

Pacific Spirit Park

Surrounding the University of British Columbia, Pacific Spirit Park is bigger than Stanley Park, and is criss-crossed with trails - this is a great place for outdoor enmthusiasts and pet owners alike.

Where to Shop

Kerrisdale

41st St. Between Maple and Larch

A great little "Main Street" type shopping district, home to Orange Corner (see above) and a number of little shops, including Thomson and Page, stop in for some really cool home furnishings.

There's free parking provided by the Merchant's Association off of Larch Street.

South Granville

Just South of the Granville Bridge

Another main street area - this one's just a little more gritty and urban than Kerrisdale, and has some great furniture stores. Standouts here included Industrial Revolution and J Interiors. We spent a couple hours here walking the shops - there are some restaurants here as well, though we didn't try any of them - Cactus Club looked good, with on the street seating, and there was a Bread Garden here too (this is a local chain that seems to pop up on corners all over town). If you just want a quick bite, look for the hot dog vendor on Granville near the bridge.

What to Read

Here are a few resources we found helpful during our visit to Victoria, Salt Spring Island, and central Vancouver Island:

Michelin's Vancouver Must Sees

We favor small, easy-to-carry travel guides with lots of photos - we want something we can flip through and find attractions in easily, rather than a large guide full of nothing but text (ok, so call us shallow <grin>).

We found a great book for this trip - Michelin's Vancouver Must Sees. At just over 120 pages, it's easy to carry and easy on the pocketbook (just $9.95 US). And though it's mainly a Vancouver guide, it has decent sections on Victoria, Whistler, and Vancouver Island as well.

All in all a handy resource for your BC trip.A regional rag covering Portland, Seattle and Vancouver. Mostly ads, but with a thorough clubs and bars section for each of the cities covered.

Shinnston, West Virginia
by Kathleen Panek, Gillum House B&B
Email Gillum House | Visit the Gillum House Website

Shinnston, West Virginia is getting to be a not too well kept secret. Located just 6 miles west of I-79 about 2 1/2 hours south of Pittsburgh, it is easy to get to but few knew of all the activities and attractions within easy reach of Shinnston. Nine years ago, the Gillum House Bed & Breakfast opened in Shinnston and the secret started to get out.

Within 60 miles or less of this little town nestled in the foothills of West Virginia are sights and activities to satisfy almost everyone. For the history buff are Civil war sights, old historic houses, and 9 of the 17 remaining covered bridges in the State, one of which was the site of the first land battle of the Civil War. Host Kathleen Panek has itineraries to take her guests to all 9 bridges with stops at hand-blown glass factories, craft shops, antique shops, and wineries to add a bit of variety to the trip. Many other packages are offered, including an inn to inn motorcycle package between Shinnston and Landgraff, WV in the southern part of the State. The Gillum House has off-street cement pad parking for motorcycle guests. Children are welcome, but due to allergies of the hosts, pets are not.

For those who want to do outdoor activities, there are several public golf courses in the area as well as a miniature golf course that uses old mine equipment for the holes, complete with explanation as to how that particular piece of equipment was used in the mines. The fishing in the area is excellent.

There are, within 60 miles or less of the Gillum House, 10 rail-trails with the West Fork River Rail-Trail being about 50 feet from the house. Bikes and helmets are available for use by guests, a donation to the Lord’s Pantry Food Bank for use of the bikes is suggested. For the bird watchers the West Fork River Rail-Trail is the place to be. A local birder has said that up to 80 species of birds can be seen on the rail-trail.

The scenery of the area and the variety of architecture is perfect for an artist or someone who just appreciates the beauty of West Virginia. For those who wish to just relax, the glider on the big front porch of the Gillum House awaits. Arrangements can also be made for an in-room massage by a licensed massage therapist.

Prayer or meditation is available 24/7 at the Chapel of Perpetual Adoration, the only chapel of its kind in West Virginia. Keeping the vigil are Catholics, Methodists, Baptists, Lutherans, and Presbyterians.

During the summer, Friday thru Tuesday, the day of activity can be capped by a visit to the drive-in theater just 2.6 miles south of Shinnston. The Gillum House posts the current movies on its web site each week.

Should you visit Shinnston on July 1 or the first Saturday in December, you will have the added treat of a concert by the Shinnston Community Band. July 1 the Shinnston Community Band sets up in front of the bathhouse at the City Park while area residents and visitors sit on their lawn chairs or blankets on the lawn or on the hillside for the Independence Concert. After the concert, the audience is treated to a solid 45 minutes of fireworks courtesy of the Shinnston Area Development Foundation. The first Saturday in December the annual Christmas Parade takes place at 6 pm. The Rife family lights the huge evergreen on the hill in front of the old Shinnston High School as the parade begins. The annual Christmas Concert by the Shinnston Community Band is held in the Baptist Lighthouse immediately after the parade as those in attendance warm up with hot chocolate and cookies provided by the Shinnston Area Development Foundation. The band members are amateur and a few professional musicians from all over the area and range in age from middle school to the oldest member who is in his 80’s.

Restaurants in the area offer many varieties of cuisine, but Italian is the mainstay of the area, that is, if you can tear yourself away from the food at the Gillum House. All food at the Gillum House is homemade, including all breads served. Although low-fat, low cholesterol is an automatic, special diet needs are accommodated as well.

The secret is out. Shinnston is a tourist destination.

Kathleen Panek is the owner/host of the Gillum House Bed & Breakfast. Opened in 1996, the Gillum House has hosted people from all over the world. Kathleen states, "we offer the European experience without having to go to the expense of crossing the ocean". Offering the extra touches usually found only in the big luxury hotels and resorts, the Gillum House makes your visit a special memory. During the holiday season, 18th Century Thanksgiving, Christmas, or New Years is available with the frontier holiday dinner served by your hosts wearing 18th century period clothing. For more information about Shinnston go to www.shinnstonwv.com and for information about the Gillum House go to www.gillumhouse.com.

These accommodations have great full page previews on the Altraverse site - click on Details or any picture for more information. Innkeepers - to be included in his section, sign up for an Expanded Listing on the site - see http://www.altraverse.com/mn/ik/expandedlisting.html for more info.

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